Vetrofond Frogpond is an oddlot glass, which is no longer produced. The rods are translucent corn yellow with a core of opaque dark blue almost black glass. This means the rods will blend into a streaky mix of these two colours. The rods are very smooth to the touch and melt easily. They do not shock if pre-warmed at the top of your flame first. Although, I couldn’t get Frogpond to shock, scum or burn out. It is very stable and easy to use.
Frogpond has a few secrets. On your first melt the yellow glass will become transparent and the blue black core will be very intense, as you can see in the little bead. If you stop here and don’t give the glass any more heat it will stay like this. If you want the yellow to bloom and the blue black bands to fade a little, you will need to heat the glass a lot more. I worked this glass in a neutral flame until it got white hot and drippy. This is the trick to getting the brightest and most intense yellow. The more heat you give Frogpond, the more pronounced the yellow becomes. The colour will move from corn to lemon and from transparent to an ethereal translucent glass, where you can see through the depth of the bead as you heat. The blue black core glass seems to float through the yellow glass like smoke with prolonged heat saturation.
You can use heat and encasement to control how much yellow and how much black shows in your bead when using Vetrofond Frogpond.
In the picture to the right, from top to bottom; the top bead was given the most heat. The glass was melted in a neutral flame until white hot and drippy then gravity shaped into a bead. This bead has the most “foggy” translucency out of all three beads. It particularly developed in the centre of the bead where the most heat was concentrated.
The second bead was gently heated, it never got drippy or white hot. When it had cooled it was encased with Effetre Clear. Then the entire bead was heated until glowing. Surprisingly, you can’t tell that this bead has an encasement. It looks almost the same as the top bead, you can only tell it has been encased when you look at the holes. I think what this second bead shows is that when Frogpond is encased, the yellow glass does not react any further. There was some reaction between the Frogpond and the clear encasement, patches of yellow fog showed here and there under the encasement, but in other places on the bead the glass is more transparent.
Lastly, the lentil bead was worked higher up in the flame and melted more slowly. It was pressed in a Cattwalk Graduated Lentil press and gently reheated and pressed a few more times to get the nice crisp lentil shape. As you can see in the lentil bead, the yellow glass has kept a lot of it’s transparent corn colour, instead of the more opaque lemon tone. So if you want more black, work cool and slow and don’t overheat.
Frogpond holds a lot of heat deep inside the bead whilst the surface can harden quickly. I held the bead out of the flame for a long while to see the colours develop and thought it would shock when reintroduced, but it didn’t. So it’s a very forgiving glass. I think this colour is beautiful and would make a lovely base for floral beads and would be interesting to use in vine stringer. I do need to test it a little further to see how reactive it is (and I will update this post when I do). I hope this post inspires you to use your stash of Vetrofond Frogpond.